Mural Kit
Which paintbrushes should I use for a mural?
Angled Sash Brush
Ahhh, the angled sash brush. I love this bad boy. I specifically love this style with the thin handle (as opposed to the more ergonomically shaped one) because its so much lighter and easier to hold. If you’re going to spend hours painting, you want to have the right tools. Specifically ones that are as light as possible. I go with the 2 inch width because it will fit in the majority of sample paint pots.
Versatile Brush 10 Pack
This pack from amazon is the best little starter kit. Especially if the project you’re doing is a smaller surface area (let’s say a set of stripes that are 4” thick each). It comes with 10 so you don’t have to wash and reuse the same brush for each color and paint smoothly on the wall.
Detail Brushes
These bad boys are my detail brushes. Every time I paint a mural there will be paint that bleeds somewhere or things that need to change. These brushes are my go-tos for that. I love that there’s a flat tipped brush, some super narrow brushes and a variety of sizes for the different needs a project presents.
Wooster Shortcut
The rubber nub. I feel like this one is a classic as well. It’s compact and comfortable, light and small. It fits right in the palm of your hand which makes awkward angles a breeze!
Assorted 5 Pack
This pack comes with 5 brushes for about $5, with a variety of sizes. It’s a nice set to start out with, making them a no-brainer.
Handy Paint Pail
Whenever I’m doing a larger mural that requires more than just a sample pot of paint, I like to pour the paint into a smaller container like this one. It’s comfortable to hold, has a magnet for your paintbrush and can be used and reused forever. You can buy liners for it (which is handy if you’re using multiple colors!), but to be a little more eco-friendly I usually just allow the paint to dry fully, and then I’ll peel it out. Weirdly satisfying.
4 inch roller frame
When I’m painting a space with a lot of surface area, I’ll use this mini roller. It’s fast and lightweight (which we’ve established is key).
4 Inch rollers
I use these rollers most frequently. Make sure you wash them out after each use and they’ll last you years!
Handy Roller Tray
I pair the mini roller with this tray for mobility and convenience. I have used many oddly shaped tupperware containers as a stand in, but since I found this I will never go back. It’s easy to carry around with you, it has the roller tray built in and it’s very lightweight.
What type of tape should I use for a mural?
I use most brands of tape, depending on who is cheaper at the time. I feel like they all serve a purpose. My tape breakdown is below:
Frogtape delicate
The adhesion isn’t as strong as normal tape, but if I’m painting in a client’s house and don’t know the history of the wall, I always go delicate. I keep this on hand because I typically have to tape over paint within a few hours of it drying.
3M Blue tape
I prefer the clean lines blue tape. This is a product that came out in like 2021(?). The lovely thing about it is that it’s as thin as the delicate tape (giving minimal ridges) but has stronger adhesion. And gives very crisp lines. Five stars.
Blue tape delicate (it’s actually purple)
I use this whenever the surface I’m painting feels fragile. Sometimes you can just tell that the top layer of paint isn’t as secure. This is my go-to for that.
3M exterior tape
This tape is weird and plastic-y and totally threw me off at first. But after using it, I am super impressed with its flexibility (it has SO much stretch) and got fairly clean lines.
Painters tape
I have been burned by generic painters tape before. Not literally, but I have been 3/4 of the way through a project only to discover that none of the tape actually stuck to the wall. It’s bad. 3M is the only general painter’s tape I’ll buy (tan colored).
Note: this tape isn’t as forgiving as Frog tape or 3m Blue. I would not leave this tape on longer than a few hours (will leave a sticky residue or damage wall underneath) and I would not use it on trim (it’s pulled up a lot of trim paint in the past). I would not use it if it will be sitting in the sun even for a short period of time.
It is however the cheapest option. I will use it if all the above conditions are met, because I burn through tape quickly (again, not literally. Please don’t burn tape).
How do I prep my wall?
The more experience I have, the more important this feels!
Clean and Prime!
If that wall is dirty, the paint is going to stick to the dirt and not the wall. If it’s covered in drywall dust, the paint cannot bind with the wall. I cannot tell you how many times I’ve pulled up tape and all the paint underneath has come with it, leaving a dusty, unprimed wall underneath.
Once the surface is clean, use the right primer. Primer is going to ensure a strong bond with the paint and make sure your surface is sealed. Using a good wood primer will prevent oils and tannins from seeping through your paint. Good drywall primer helps fill the thirsty drywall and gives you a good surface to paint on. Trust me, it’s always worth it to prime.
Hot tip: tint your primer. Most paint chips at SW (and other companies) will have a recommended primer color on the back (P1-6). This takes the primer from stark white to different grey tones, making it so much easier to cover with darker colors.
**When I am painting a mural for hire, I make it clear that I am not responsible for prepping the wall. I will paint it as is unless contracted to do otherwise.
How do I choose paint for my mural?
Great question. There are a lot of great paint brands and many that I haven’t tried yet, so instead of recommending brands I’ll focus on paint properties.
What kind of paint should I use for a mural?
I use paint appropriate for the surface I’m painting. If the mural is on an interior wall, I use wall paint. If it’s on an exterior wall, I use exterior wall paint. If I’m painting on wood or masonry, I prime that surface with the right primer and then use the correct paint for the environment.
What sheen of paint should I use for a mural?
I use matte or flat when painting color on walls. Anything with a sheen is going to have a reflection and distract from the final image you’ve painted. Less sheen will also mask wall imperfections. I make sure when I’m buying a matte or flat that it’s advertised as “washable”.
What paint quality should I get?
I go for the higher quality line at any paint store. Usually the second tier (to save a little money). I end up needed fewer coats (than if I had used cheaper paint) this way which often makes up for the price difference and the paint goes on better. If I’m painting a room a solid color, I love the finish of Sherwin Williams Emerald Matte paint line. It feels lux and feels worth the splurge for me.
How much paint do I need for a mural?
Most murals can be done with sample pots of paint. I will almost always use these. Some paint companies don’t use their normal paint formula in the sample pots, but I haven’t found that to be an issue in my own home. If I’m doing a mural for a client, I will splash out on full formula paint. In my house? Shelves in my studio are filled with sample pots.
I’d only buy full gallons of paint for large, room-sized coverage. Most interior residential murals don’t fall in that category.
Do I need to put a protective coating over my mural?
In your own home? Sure don’t. If you anticipate graffiti? Absolutely. While anti-grafitti coating isn’t perfect, it’s definitely worth a few hundred dollars to protect your work. I’ve heard good things about the SW two-part coating.
How do I draw out my mural?
There are three methods for this: a projector, the grid transfer method and an old school measuring stick and pencil. I typically go the freehand/measuring stick route.
Pencils
Specifically Ticonderoga pencils. Is it dorky to geek out about a pencil brand? Doesn’t matter, they’re the best.
4 ft Level
I use this 4 ft level for almost all of my murals. It comes with me when I travel. It has a case with a sticker and a place at my table. I’m kidding, but it really is my favorite.
1 ft Level
I use this 1 ft level for most smaller applications. Pair it with a yardstick if you don’t have a larger level. Pair it with a chalk line to make things even easier. As a bonus, I use it all the time for DIY projects too.
Chalk line
This has the most beautiful blue chalk too which I prefer. As an added bonus, chalk lines function as a plumb bob, always helping you find plumb. This line also features a clip to secure it on one end, which is ridiculously handy.
Speed Square
A speed square is another one of my essential DIY tools. Paired with a circular saw it has all-but replaced my chop saw. It’s not essential for most murals, but I find it helpful to find a 45º angle. As a stand in, you could always fold a square piece of paper along a diagonal and pair it with the 1 ft level to help you find 45º.
Drop-cloth
I don’t typically use a drop-cloth when I’m painting, but when I do, I prefer this one. Its dimensions make it ideal for working along a wall.
What should I wear while I’m painting?
Listen. At this point, all of my clothes are painting clothes. Except for like 3 things that haven’t had the “I’ll just be really careful this time” experience. I do recommend a sturdy colorful jumpsuit, and might as well add a fancy cute one to the mix as well.
Mixed by Nasrin
Small, woman owned company based out of New York. I love all of the patterns, the fit is great (I usually size up!), and they have stretch! Look sharp and painterly.
Big Bud Press
Super high quality jumpsuits, great ethical company, made in the USA. Great colors. They’re on the more expensive end, but I have repaired and repaired these. I have several colors and love them all.